Designer debuts were on the agenda for Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester and Italian-French brand Nina Ricci.

Designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, known for his gender-neutral designs, brought a breath of fresh air to Ann Demeulemeester. A sensual approach was expected, which takes the archive of the brand as a fixed point and catapults it into a new era. And what can we say: We were not disappointed, because the filigree silhouettes, which were made of flowing but also rigid fabrics, showed a contemporary kind of genderless dressing that was characterized by sensual lightness and a natural detachment from gender norms.

Harris Reed’s Nina Ricci debut, on the other hand, was much more eccentric. Expansive shapes, colors and emphasizing the body with extra volume were core elements of the rebranding. With a strategy totally dedicated to the red carpet cult, all the designs in the Fall/Winter collection are prime contenders for upcoming event looks. Because if there’s one thing British designer Harris Reed is known for, it’s his very own take on the gender fluid fashion debate. It thrives on bold creations that want to attract attention.

5. (Childish) Euphemism and the Poetry of “Joy”

As a clear contrast to the serious elegance, the joy of life was also celebrated. In eccentric collections and défilés, but also in surprising productions. One of the highlights, celebrated mainly on TikTok, was the presentation of the French label APC. Under the title “Maman Je Sors Ce soir” (“Mom, I’m going out tonight”), the brand celebrated youth. Appropriately, the collection was presented by the classmates of the daughter of the designer couple Judith and Jean Touitous. None of them were born before 2006. And for the grand finale, the show erupted into a euphoric rave that reflected extremely well the preppy punk of Gen Z, who don’t stick to a grid and want to reinvent everything.

Loewe was also playful as usual (but also with a serious undertone). Featuring sculptural squares of confetti, the collection reflected a kind of inner euphoria that, in a time of total extroversion, focused on the essentials: silhouette, texture and the play of light. An absolutely poetic interpretation of joy, which also showed its highlights with high-contrast colors.

There are even more fashion week highlights here: